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    <title>Dear Tom and Ray - Cartalk Newspaper Column</title>
    <link>http://cartalk.com/content/columns/</link>
    <description>The twice-weekly nationally-syndicated automotive Q&amp;amp;A column from America's funniest car mechanics, Tom and Ray Magliozzi.</description>
    <copyright>2008, Dewey, Cheetham and Howe</copyright>
    <dc:rights>2008, Dewey, Cheetham and Howe</dc:rights>
    <item>
      <title>Will Jonathan run out of oxygen and expire, when he falls sleeps in his (not running) car?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/May/03.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: For years, I have been a field-mouse-poor college student, sleeping in my (crappy, leaky, rusty) Jeep on trips, such as snowboarding, to save money (yes, it gets nippy -- hence the zero-degree sleeping bag). Now, with a job, I bought a "new to me" 2006 Subaru Outback that has similar sleeping capacity in the back (yes, I can now afford a car, just not the crazy hotel prices at the ski resorts). My fear is that this "new" car has far fewer rattles and doesn't leak air like my Hindenburg/Jeep did. So I fear if I sleep in it, I may run out of air and just die in my sleep. Can I die in my car if it is NOT running and I sleep in it? -- Jonathan</description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 08 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/May/03.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-08T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>What do I do about my outta-control lights?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/12.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: We own a 1984 Mazda GLC. The right emergency flasher only works if we also flip on the right turn signal. After a few minutes, we can flip off the right turn signal and both flashers stay on. Also, when the temperature drops to the mid-thirties or lower, the parking brake light stays on after the brake is disengaged. Eventually, the light goes out after the car has been driven fifteen of twenty minutes. We know that tracing an electrical problem can be a costly nightmare. Should we let a mechanic tear into it? Could it lead to more serious complications if left unattended? Joe and Debra</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/12.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Labor costs v. doing-it-myself...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/11.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I just a had a speedometer light bulb replaced on my 1988 Ford Thunderbird. The dashboard had to be removed to do this Two bulbs cost $2.40, but the labor cost $66.00. The speedometer is difficult to read without the light. Is this a job a do-it-yourselfer could do? Wayne</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/11.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>What's does 4 X 4 actually mean?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/10.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I had the impression that 4 X 4 meant 4 wheel drive and 4 speed manual transmission. Now I see advertisements for 4 X 4, 4 X 2 etc. What do these terms mean? Will</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/10.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Why does my beloved car rattle on the highway?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/09.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I write to you concerning our beloved Cumulus, a 1977 white Buick LaSabre. We call it Cumulus because it rides like a cloud. It has 147,000 miles, and we are beginning to hear things we don't like. When we take longer trips on the highway we develop large amounts of valve rattle. After about an hour of highway driving, the valves sound as though they are about to come out through the hood. When this happens, we pull over to check the oil level and coolant level. Both are fine, but when we start up again the temp light is on. What do we have to do to keep the car running for another 50,000 miles? Charlie</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/09.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Wheel covers...who needs 'em?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/08.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have a real problem with the wheel covers on my 1986 Delta 88. The wire spokes rattle terribly. The garage said to tape them with electrical tape which I did, but they have to be re-taped every month. New ones are much too expensive. Will other wheel covers fit? What should I do? Marvin</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/08.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Should I replace my timing belt like my mechanic suggests?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/07.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have an 1986 Ford Escort. It has close to 54,000 miles, and I've been warned that the timing belt should be changed even though there's nothing wrong with it. At $250+, I want to know what good it does to change it before it breaks. If it breaks, does the car just stop, of can the engine be destroyed somehow? Carol</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/07.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Should I replace my timing belt like my mechanic suggests</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/06.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have an 1986 Ford Escort. It has close to 54,000 miles, and I've been warned that the timing belt should be changed even though there's nothing wrong with it. At $250+, I want to know what good it does to change it before it breaks. If it breaks, does the car just stop, of can the engine be destroyed somehow? Carol</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/06.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>How to predict a battery's lifespan?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/05.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: Is there any method to determine when an automobile battery is getting toward the end of its life expectancy? Our last battery was working perfectly until it went dead completely without warning. Fortunately, it happened in our garage, but if it had occured at a distant location, I could have been in real trouble. Kathleen</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/05.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>How to sell an ancient jalopy...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/04.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have a 1938 Chevy 1 ton truck. It was used during World War II as a gasoline truck at a local air force base. It was used after the war at a local airport until about 20 years ago, and it's been sitting in the hangar ever since. Could you advise me how to make contacts to sell it? Martin</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/04.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Name some great American cars!</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/03.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: My husband thinks the best car in terms of reliability, cost, and fuel efficiency is the Acura Legend. His next favorite car is the Honda Accord. Please give us the names of any American automobiles that are as reliable and fuel efficient. I would like to buy from an American car company. My husband states he would buy an American car if he could find one as good! Joyce</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/03.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Why are windows wired so they only operate when the ignition is on?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/02.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: Why in the world do car makers connect power window circuits so that the ignition switch must be turned on in order to operate the windows? It's a pain! You get out of the car and realize you left a window open. Then you have to turn the ignition back on so you can close the window. Why don't they wire the windows so they can work anytime? Fred</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/02.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Call Conan the Electrocutor...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/01.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: How long does a 50 month battery really last? Jean</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/December/01.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>My car hums and groins when I accelerate...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/14.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: We recently purchased a 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity with a V-6 engine. The engine is quiet at idle, but when we accelerate, we hear a humming or light groaning. The Chevy service manager's advice is "don't concentrate on the noise." He says we are making something out of nothing. What do you think? Robert</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/14.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>How often should I re-line my brakes?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/13.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I am perplexed by my 1986 Acura Integra. I had the front brakes re-lined at 13,000 miles and the rear brakes done at 29,000 miles. Each time, it cost me $159. It is my contention that brakes pads should not have to be replaced that soon. Please help me to understand this situation. Theodora</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/13.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Why does my AC stink up my car?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/12.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: When I turn on the air conditioner in my 1988 Ford Thunderbird, I get a musty, mildew odor. It goes away in about 5 or 10 minutes. What's my problem? Rufus</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/12.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Antenna woes...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/11.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: We have a lovely old '72 Cadillac that suits our needs and comfort just fine. We have one problem. The car's antenna is in the windshield. Since we got a new windshield 5 years ago, the radio reception has diminished so that we get little or no reception outside of the metropolitan area. We have had the radio checked each time we tuned-up the car. They can't find anything wrong. Can an auxiliary antenna be installed? Mary Ann</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/11.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>When your car is like a fine wine...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/10.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: My 1979 Rotary Engine Mazda RX7 has over 130,000 miles and has never had a problem. In fact, the older it gets, the better it seems to run and the less oil it consumes. At some point, I assume the engine will die. What should I look for in a rotary engine to indicate the time has come? Charles</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/10.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Does the check engine light actually indicate a problem?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/09.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: My question concerns my 1987 Chevy Cavalier. The "check engine" light comes on all the time. I check the items under the hood that would cause this trouble and find nothing wrong. What should I do? Art</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/09.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The age old question: do I fix or dump?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/08.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I recently had a minor accident--in my own driveway--with my 1981 Pontiac Gran Prix with 75,000 miles. The insurance company paid me to repair the fender and paint the car. The Grand Prix was a lovely blue when I bought it, but now it is badly faded. Even before the accident, I was thinking of repainting it because it has been very reliable and still runs well. My question is, would I be better off fixing the Gran Prix, or applying the insurance money toward a new car? If so, what car do you recommend? I would like a car about the same size, no larger. I need air conditioning, power brakes, power steering, and cruise control. I am middle aged and not interested in keeping up with the Joneses, but I do want a nice looking car with good repair record. Anne</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1989/November/08.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-05-07T04:00:00Z</dc:date>
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